In the middle of Europe

Introduction to Hungary

A relatively small, landlocked nation of just over ten million people, Hungary boasts much more beyond its beautiful, and very hip, capital city, Budapest. Gorgeous Baroque towns stand cheek by jowl with ancient castles and fortresses, while nature asserts itself spectacularly in the form of Lake Balaton, one of Europe's largest lakes. Equally stunning are the thickly forested Northern Uplands, and the beguiling landscape of the vast Great Plain, not to mention one of the grandest stretches of the great Danube River. Aside from the country's extraordinary concentration of thermal spas, there is also a wealth of other activities available, including a range of watersports, horse-riding, cycling and hiking, while nearly two dozen wine regions offer the chance to sample a range of quality wines little known beyond its own borders.

Right at the heart of Europe, Hungary was likened by the poet Ady to a "river ferry, continually travelling between East and West, with always the sensation of not going anywhere but of being on the way back from the other bank"; this seems especially evident in the Hungarians' strong identification with the West, and simultaneous display of fierce pride in themselves as Magyars – a race that transplanted itself from Central Asia. After some forty years of Communist rule, the country embarked on reforming state socialism long before Gorbachev, making the transition to multi-party democracy without a shot being fired, while the removal of the Iron Curtain along its border set in motion the events leading to the fall of the Berlin Wall. The ensuing spread of glossy Western capitalism, particularly in the capital, has brought very mixed blessings indeed for Hungarians – many of whom saw their living standards fall sharply. Following the country's accession to the EU in 2004 – which was broadly favoured by most Hungarians – there is a fresh sense of optimism, though what benefits membership will bring, only time will tell.